Has your petticoat ever fallen around your feet? When I was young, I read about a girl losing her petticoats during a parade, and I couldn’t imagine my elastic-waisted petticoats ever falling down. Nowadays, many girls can’t even tell you what a petticoat is; we’ve left them behind. (It’s really just a skirt worn under the dress.) How many other garments that were commonly worn in the 19th century are only words in a book to most people these days?
It’s easy to notice the women wearing hoops in our Civil War Journey
, but what else are they wearing to get that mid-19th century look? Hoops are nearly the last garments donned before the dress. Stockings, garters to hold them up and shoes are donned before the corset; it’s really hard to bend down to tie your shoes with corset boning fighting to keep you straight! The chemise is a low-necked, short-sleeved garment that looks like an old-fashioned nightgown and is worn over drawers (think loose capris).
The chemise protects the corset from body oil; they work together to shape the “bosom”. Some women wore a corset cover which kept corset ridges from showing.
Hoops (more accurately called cage crinolines) replaced most of the layers and layers of petticoats used to hold the skirts out in fashionable silhouettes from the 1820s on. However, there’s at least one petticoat over the cage crinoline to hide the lines of the hoops and one underneath for coverage in case the contrary hoops pop up or tilt unexpectedly, which they can and do.
Have you ever seen a photo from the Civil War and thought the woman was wearing a blouse under her dress? Usually, you were seeing two separate pieces, undersleeves and collar or chemisette. Cuffs and collars were basted in and changed when soiled to keep the dress looking fresh. Undersleeves and chemisettes (think dickeys) filled in wider sleeves and necklines.
So, why did petticoats fall down? They were buttoned at the waistband, and buttons can work loose. With all those layers, it’s hard to know until it’s just too late.